AC Repair in Mobile, AL
Same-day diagnosis and repair across Mobile County. We show you the failed part and quote a flat price — before we touch a single wire.
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Your AC quit in the middle of a Mobile summer. Let’s get it fixed — today, honestly, and for a fair price.
Here in Mobile, an air conditioner is not a luxury. In July it gets to about 91°F, and the air sits near 74% humidity. When your AC dies, your house can climb into the 80s by afternoon. That is miserable for anyone. It can be dangerous for kids and older folks.
That is why we do AC repair the right way. We come out the same day you call. A real person answers the phone. We show you what is broken. And we tell you the price before we start any work. You say yes first. Then we fix it.
- Same-day air conditioner repair across Mobile & Mobile County
- You get the full price upfront — no surprises after the work
- We fix first: if a $200 part does the job, that is all we charge
12 AC Problems We Fix Every Day
Your problem is probably on this list. We see every one of these each week, from old homes in Midtown to new builds near I-65:
- AC not cooling — It runs and runs, but the house never gets cool. Often it is an airflow, refrigerant, or electrical problem. (Refrigerant is the special fluid inside your AC that carries heat out of your house.)
- AC blowing warm air — The compressor is not kicking on. (The compressor is the big pump outside that does the heavy cooling work.) Or the thermostat is misreading. Or refrigerant is low.
- Frozen evaporator coil — Ice on the copper lines or the indoor coil. (The evaporator coil is the indoor part that pulls heat out of your air.) Turn the system OFF. Set the fan to ON so the ice can melt. Then call us. Running it frozen can kill the compressor.
- AC leaking water inside — The condensate drain line is clogged. (This small pipe carries away the water your AC pulls from the air.) Our humid air grows algae in that pipe fast. This is one of the most common calls in Mobile. If you ignore it, it can stain your ceiling.
- Refrigerant leak / low refrigerant — You hear hissing. You see ice on the lines. The system never stops running. Refrigerant does not get “used up.” If it is low, there is a leak. Only a certified tech can legally touch it.
- AC not turning on at all — It could be a tripped breaker, a dead capacitor, a bad thermostat, or a dead contactor. (A capacitor is a small part that gives your motor its starting push. A contactor is the electric switch that starts the compressor.) We find the cause fast.
- AC short cycling — It turns on and off every few minutes. That wastes power and wears parts out. And it never really cools.
- Strange noises — Buzzing often means the contactor is failing. Grinding means motor bearings are going bad. Hissing can mean a refrigerant leak. Banging means something is loose. Each sound tells a story. We listen.
- Bad odors from vents — A musty or mildew smell means mold in the ducts or air handler. (The air handler is the indoor box that blows air through your house.) With 74% humidity, it does not take long.
- High energy bills — An old system or a failing part can push Alabama Power bills to $200–$400 or more a month in summer. Often one repair pays for itself in a single season.
- Poor airflow — Weak air from the vents? It could be leaky ducts, a dying blower motor, or a filter you have not changed in months. (The blower motor is the fan that pushes air through your home.)
- Humidity problems — The house feels sticky even when the AC runs. The system cools but does not dry the air. Often the unit is too big for the house, refrigerant is low, or the coil is old.
Your AC Questions, Answered Straight
Why is my AC running but not cooling the house?
The top causes are a clogged air filter, a frozen evaporator coil (the indoor part that pulls heat from your air), low refrigerant from a leak, dirty condenser coils (the outdoor coils that dump heat outside), or a dead capacitor (the small part that gives your motor its starting push). Check the filter first. Hold it up to light. If you cannot see through it, change it. If you see ice on the copper lines, turn the system off. Run just the fan to melt the ice. Then call a tech. Never keep running a frozen system.
How do I know if my AC is low on refrigerant?
Look for ice on the copper lines or the indoor coil. Listen for hissing near the indoor or outdoor unit. Watch if the system runs all the time but never hits the temp you set. Watch if your power bills keep climbing. Refrigerant moves in a sealed loop. Low means there is a leak. It needs to be found and fixed — not just topped off. Federal law says only a certified tech can handle refrigerant.
Why is my AC leaking water inside the house?
It is almost always a clogged condensate drain line. Your AC pulls gallons of water from our humid air every day. That water drains through a small PVC pipe. Algae grows in it. The pipe clogs. Water backs up into the drain pan, then onto your ceiling or floor. A $100–$200 drain cleaning now beats a $1,000–$5,000 ceiling repair later.
What does it mean when my AC hums but won’t start?
That is the classic sound of a dead capacitor. The capacitor is the small part that gives your compressor and fan motors their starting push. It is the most common summer breakdown we see. Heat kills capacitors fast. The fix is quick — often under an hour. It usually costs $150–$300. If you hear humming, turn the system off and call us. Forcing it can burn out the motor.
Why does my AC keep freezing up?
Two things cause almost every freeze-up: weak airflow or low refrigerant. Weak airflow comes from a dirty filter, blocked vents, or a weak blower motor (the fan that moves your air). Low refrigerant drops the coil temp below freezing, and ice builds up. Either way: melt it on fan-only mode. Change the filter. Make sure vents are open. If it freezes again, call us before the compressor gets damaged.
The Parts That Fail Most in Mobile
Heat and humidity are hard on parts. Here is what usually breaks — and what we check:
- Capacitor (start/run) — the small part that gives motors their starting push. Heat kills it. $150–$300 installed.
- Contactor — the electric switch that starts the compressor. We have even found ants clogging them. It really happens down here on the Gulf Coast.
- Evaporator coil / condenser coil — the indoor coil pulls heat from your air; the outdoor coil dumps it outside. Freeze-ups, dirt, and salt-air rust kill them. It is worse near Mobile Bay and Dauphin Island.
- Refrigerant lines — copper lines can leak where parts join. We test the pressure to find the leak.
- Blower motor / fan motor — the fan that pushes air through your home. Bearings grind before they quit. That noise is your warning.
- Condensate drain line & drain pan — algae clogs the line; pans rust through. We clear it, treat it, and can add a float safety switch (a small device that shuts the system off before water overflows).
- Thermostat — a miscalibrated or badly wired thermostat causes on-off cycling and no-cool calls. Sometimes the “repair” is just fixing a setting. It costs $0. We will tell you.
- Circuit board — the brain of the system. Power surges in hurricane season (June–November) fry boards. A surge protector on the outdoor unit is cheap protection.
- Expansion valve (TXV) — a small valve that meters refrigerant into the indoor coil. When it sticks, cooling falls apart.
- Air handler — the indoor box that blows air through your house. Mold loves its damp inside in our climate.
We also service heat pumps — they both heat and cool, and folks like them for Mobile’s mild winters — and ductless mini-splits, including multi-zone systems (one outdoor unit serving several rooms).
Refrigerants: What Mobile Homeowners Should Know
Refrigerant is the special fluid inside your AC that carries heat out of your house.
- R-410A (Puron) — what most systems built in the last 15 years use. Still fully serviceable.
- R-22 (Freon) — phased out to protect the environment. Still legal to use, but supplies are shrinking and prices keep rising. If your R-22 system needs a big refrigerant repair, that is often the point where replacing makes more sense. We will show you the math both ways.
- R-32 / R-454B — the newer, greener refrigerants in today’s high-efficiency systems. If you replace your system, this is what you will get.
Only certified techs can legally handle refrigerant. This is never a DIY job.
Repair or Replace? Our Honest Framework
This is where our trade loses people’s trust. So here is our rule, in writing:
- Repair it when the fix costs less than half of a new system and your unit is under 10–12 years old. A $225 capacitor on an 8-year-old unit is a no-brainer.
- Think about replacing when the unit is 12+ years old, runs on R-22, and needs a big repair (compressor or coil). At that point you are feeding money into a system with no future.
- We will show you both numbers. The repair quote and the replacement quote, side by side. Plus our plain-English advice. We would rather keep you as a $300 repair customer for 20 years than push you into a system you do not need.
What AC Repair Costs in Mobile, AL
| Repair | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Service / diagnostic visit | $100–$200 |
| Capacitor or contactor replacement | $150–$300 |
| Condensate drain clearing | $100–$200 |
| Refrigerant leak detection + recharge | $300–$800 |
| Blower motor or circuit board | $600–$1,200 |
| Compressor or coil replacement | $1,000–$2,500 |
| Full system replacement | $5,000–$12,000+ |
Real price ranges for Mobile. We tell you your exact price after we check the system. You approve it before any work starts.
Serving Mobile & Mobile County
Mobile · Prichard · Saraland · Chickasaw · Satsuma · Theodore · Semmes · Tillmans Corner · West Mobile · Midtown — ZIPs 36602, 36606, 36608, 36609, 36618, 36619, 36693, 36695.
AC emergency in the middle of the night or on a holiday? See our emergency AC repair page — that’s what it’s built for.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast can you get here?
Same-day service across Mobile and Mobile County. Call before noon, and we are usually there that afternoon.
Do you work on my brand?
We service most major home brands and all system types — central air, heat pumps, and ductless mini-splits.
Is there a warranty on the repair?
Yes. Our work is warranted, and the parts carry their own maker warranties too.
My breaker keeps tripping when the AC runs — is that dangerous?
It can be. A tripping breaker is protecting you from an electrical fault — a shorted compressor, a failing motor, or bad wiring. Reset it once. If it trips again, stop and call us. Do not keep resetting it.
Can I just add refrigerant myself?
No. Federal law says only EPA-certified techs can handle refrigerant. And topping off without fixing the leak is money down the drain. The leak always wins in the end.
Do you offer maintenance plans?
Yes. Twice-a-year tune-ups catch the small stuff — weak capacitors, clogged drains, low refrigerant — before summer turns them into breakdowns.
Why does my upstairs never cool like downstairs?
It is usually the ductwork — runs that are too small, leaks, or poor insulation in a hot attic. Older homes in Midtown are known for this. We can check airflow room by room.